Best Red Rocks Boulder Problems:
Climbing at Red Rock is something special. It is one of the most accessible world class climbing destinations, it has reasonably stable weather, and is a cheap flight away from most of the United States. What makes Red Rocks special though is the quality sandstone that allows those that are here for a short period of time to get the most out of there skin and muscles. While there are plenty of areas that deserve our attention, we are going to take a look at the most concentrated and accessible area in Red Rocks: The Kraft Boulders.
The Kraft Boulders
A whole 35 minutes from the Las Vegas Strip, the Kraft Boulders are close to Vegas but are nicely tucked away from the sprawling monstrosity that is Las Vegas. The ease of access means you shouldn’t expect to be alone here, in fact there are often crowds. On the flip side I think it would be reasonable to expect that you could show up without a pad and assume you could climb to your hearts content with a plethora of pads and spotters throughout the day to the point where it feels like a super friendly gym. With some notable exceptions the Kraft Boulders tend to be nice on the hand, be softly graded, and have reasonable top outs. All of these things make the Kraft Boulders the go to spot for a climbing trip.
Camping
Camping basically comes down to a few things:
Are you willing to pay $20 a night for a spot withing 5 mins of the Kraft Boulders, a pit toilet, and access to water? If yes camp at the Red Rock campground. These campsites can be reserved at Recreation.gov. The camp hosts were pretty hawkish about parking passes so don’t be surprised if they come to chat with you. From the Recreation.gov site: Individual-standard campsites are limited to 10 people and 2 vehicles per site. Group sites are limited to 20 people and eight vehicles per site. RV sites are limited to one RV and one vehicle per site. Walk-to sites are limited to one vehicle and two smaller tents per site. (these are first-come/first-served).”
Are you a dirt bag trying to not to spend a dime or is the campground full? Well then there is free dispersed camping in Loveland Canyon. Unfortunately you will have to drive approximately 45 minutes to get to the boulders. There are also no water resources whatsoever its basically 100% off the grid.
Do you despise everything about sleeping outside? If so I don’t know what you are doing climbing, but there are plenty of hotels within a half hour from dirt cheap that come with there very own bed bugs to penthouse suites that come with their own strippers. Pick your poison.
Other things to consider:
DO NOT CLIMB ON SANDSTONE IF IT IS MOIST. You could break a hold and be forever cursed by the climbing gods. Mountain Project is also an excellent source to help you find boulders as they have a map that can be accessed without service. You can find the location of the problem from the boulder’s page (not the problem’s page) and then click the map button. Finally it might help you to take some screen shots of this article or downloading some of the beta videos (if you have YouTube Premium) before you get out there because the 4G out there is spotty at best. The Kraft Boulders in particular have a horrible trail system making it hard to write directions to boulders but also could cause a potential access problem in the future when someone inevitably gets mad about climbers trampling plants. Save us all the headache and try not to step on them. The Kraft Boulders are dog friendly, but if you bring your furry friend be respectful and pick up the poop even if it isn’t yours. Pet owners have to stick together.
GETTING THERE:
Link to Google Maps: Parking
V0
1. Spreader
Pearl Boulder (Not High):
Beta: Squat start on the lowest part of the flake. Work up the flake and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk along the main path and follow the path to the right. The pearl boulder is right on the main path and, spreader is on the side of the boulder furthest away from the parking lot.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: For a V0 beginner climber this is a fun problem. In addition, I saw a few people struggle on the top mentally even though this climb is not very high, and the landing is excellent which makes it appealing.
2. Poker Chips
Potato Chip Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Start on the left edge. Follow the top rail to the apex of the boulder and pull over the top.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right on the main path and its one of the first boulders you come to. You will come to the backside of the boulder first (see second photo below).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Fun with lots of heel hooks and a great rock over top out.
3. Plumber’s Crack
Plumber’s Crack Boulder (Really Freaking High):
Beta: Start in the crack and climb the chimney. Then down climb the chimney back to safety.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The best part about this climb is the amazing pictures you can get on this climb at sunset with partly cloudy sky. Just be ready for the down climb because as I mentioned before it is high.
V1
1. Smiley Face
Black Bitch Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand Start on hip high side pull and small undercling and work up the slab to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Surprisingly technical for a V1 the feet are the challenge here, but the sandstone provides. I am not going to lie though of all of the grades I found myself most disappointed with the V1’s They are good, but not great.
2. Fluffer
Warm Up Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand Start on the side pulls left of the over chalked ledge. Move into the ledge and find the good hold before making the move to the top.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This problem is good. Harder for shorter people, but good none-the-less.
3. Perfect Poser
The Cube Boulder (Really Freaking High):
Beta: Start on the holds close to the left arete. Climb the positive holds and top out the highball.
Beta Video
How to Get There: This problem is on the first boulder you see walking in from the parking lot, its also really tall. This problem is on the backside of the boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The down climb is the hardest part of this problem and the second hardest part is the top out. I would not attempt this one unless your mental game is strong and even then… be careful
V2
1. Monkey Bar
Monkey Bar Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on low jugs in the cave, move right along good holds and transition out of the cave onto the face, then go up and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path past the Pearl Boulder and you’ll eventually come to Monkey Bar as it is along the main path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This place is always crowded and for good reason. The problems on this boulder are great. Monkey Bar in particular feels so good on your hands that you cannot pass up this problem.
2. Potato Chips
Potato Chip Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Squat start on crimps, go straight up and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right on the main path and its one of the first boulders you come to. You will come to the backside of the boulder first (second photo below).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is an incredibly popular climb. The climb is super straight forward, and the rock look really cool.
3. Put Your Shoes On Arete
Wolfgang Guillich Memorial Boulder (Not High):
Beta: Start with your left hand on an undercling side pull and right hand on a crimp. Bump out and then climb straight up the blunt arete
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This arete is a lot of fun the top is casual but the bottoms take a bit of skill and footwork to get you to the jugs.
V3
1. The Pork Chop
Pork Chop Boulder (Not High):
Beta: Stand Start on the right arete, move up and top out at the apex of the boulder.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path until you come to this boulder. This is quite a hike so you will pass the Pearl and Monkey Bar. Once you get past Monkey Bar the path will start to veer toward the left and head into the canyon. At that point you are almost there.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This problem is worth the extra walk! The boulder looks super cool, the feet are tiny and the holds get increasingly insecure. Fantastic!
2. The Wave
The Wave Boulder (Not High, but you’ll want a couple of pads):
Beta: Squat start on the right side of the big overhanging ledge. Move left and around the bulge to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path. When you get to the Pearl (see V5’s) pass the boulder and look to about 9 O’clock and you’ll see the wave.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This one always seems to have a crowd. A bit overrated in my opinion, but the heel hook and jugs combo is certainly appealing.
3. Butterfly Kiss:
Hound Dog Arete Area (Lowball)
Beta: Sit start on the back wall of the overhang on the undercling. Bump out around the bulge and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Short but worth it. This gym style problem is super fun and has a variety of moves that make it a problem you won’t want to miss.
V4
1. Jones’n
Burnout Boulder (Not High):
Beta: Sit start on any holds you can reach from the ground. Bump out left and move up the arete and top out almost directly over the start holds.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see the this boulder from the main trail. Once you come to the first group of boulders walk past the Potato Chip Boulder and you will be able to see Jones’n (see second photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is one of those problems that can be done a million different ways which makes it fun.
2. Ultimate Grandstaff
Ultimate Grandstaff Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand start on awful crimps. Bump out to the arete, move up and slap the right hand sloper before compressing to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: I found the beta in the guide books on this problem confusing. It may be a little contrived to start on the horrible crimps and then move out to the arete, but I think it makes the problem worth doing. The feet are small and the sloper at the top makes this problem more committing than you would expect at first glance.
3. Dead Heart
Outback Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Squat start (or sit start) on hip high holds. Move up and left into vertical flakes and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path. Pass the Pearl (V5) and make it to Monkey Bar (V2). Once you make it there, make your way down and cross the wash (dry stream bed) to find the path on the other side. Do not go into the canyon. Instead continue along the path until you reach the end of the ridge. Go around the ridge and walk the base until you see the Outback Boulder
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: If this wasn’t such a far walk this would be my #1 V4. The setting is great, the holds are interesting, the moves feel good. If I had to choose one problem not to miss on this list it would be this one.
V5
1. The Pearl
Pearl Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand start on right hand side pull and pocket. Pull up to good edge with bad feet, make the move out left to a pocket and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk to the right along the main path until you see the Pearl.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This climb certainly looks harder for shorter people. The whole problem for me feels like 5 moves, but for shorter people it looks like 10+ because of all of the intermediates. The real key here is feet, and high shitty ones at that. This is one of the more popular climbs so expects pad parties.
2. Hyperglide
Monkey Bar (High):
Beta: Start on the low left side of the overhang and make your way up to the undercling. Pull out onto the face using the pinch and use the crimps to gain the jugs at the top. The top out is easy, but you won’t want to fall from here.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path past the pearl boulder and you’ll eventually come to Monkey Bar as it is along the main path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: After the potato chip boulder this area is probably the most crowded because there are so many classic climbs in one small area. Hyperglide sports a really cool lock off and a high top out which are sure to be engaging.
3. Bathtub
Bathtub Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand start on the right hand sidepull. and a left hand crimp. Use the crimps to go straight up the face.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the path past the Pearl (V5) and come to the Bathtub Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: I love thin technical climbs so this one speaks to me. This was first sent by Lynn Hill, so its kind of one of those historical climbs you just have to do.
V6
1. Vino Rojo
Bath Tub Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Jump start to the sloper, move left to the undercling, heel hook and bump your way to a ledge. Adjust your feet, use the hold at the top and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the path past the Pearl (V5) and come to the Bathtub Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a fun problem but in order to be fun, and not a sketch fest you need approximately six pads. You could do with less but double stacking pads makes the landing much squishier. The top out is also the crux so I think part of the moves on this are more 5ish, but I watched several good climbers walk away from this because its kind of scary. That being said I fell from the top several time and it was all good.
2. Alexisizer
Alexisizer Boulder (Lowball):
Beta: Sit start on the lower left side of the boulder. Move right along the edge heel hooking and bumping your way along, top out on the right arete.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the path past the Pearl (V5) and the Bathroom Boulder (V5). Soon after there will be a group of several boulders on the left that are smaller than the Bathtub Boulder. Walk into the little alcove and you will see Alexisizer on the furthest side of the boulder from the parking lot.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: There is something about a sloper heal hook traverses that can truly be a battle of will to find just the right way the holds work for you. Low and long this is a good one.
3. Classic Monkey
Monkey Bar Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start in good holds and climb up to the good crimpy ledge. Then move out and left a couple of moves before heading up to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path past the Pearl Boulder and you’ll eventually come to Monkey Bar as it is along the main path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: A very gymnastic climb with a cool cross through move. With all the people you are likely to see here, you might forget you are outside.
V7
1. Angel Dyno
Angel Dyno (Not High):
Beta: Stand start and move right on crimps. Dyno to the hold just below the apex of the boulder and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail. Once you come to the first group of boulders walk past the Potato Chip Boulder and you will be able to see Angel Dyno (see second photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Pads and spotters. Fun one move wonder, yes there is more than one move, but only one move that is super delicious. Tall people can keep there feet on, but extra style points for a true dyno.
2. Bubble Butt
Bubble Butt Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Start under the roof. Move up and around the corner onto the face to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see this boulder from the main trail. Once you come to the first group of boulders walk past the Potato Chip Boulder and you will be able to see Bubble Butt on the hillside (see second photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Good movement down low, easier moves up high and a cool move to transition from the overhang on to the face.
3. Mr. Moran
Mr. Moran Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on the left side of the cave opening, bump up to a sloper and traverse across the lip. Mantel just before you make it to the right edge of the boulder and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path until you come to this boulder. This is quite a hike so you will pass the Pearl (V5) and Monkey Bar (V2). Once you get past Monkey Bar the path will start to veer toward the left and head into the canyon. At that point you are almost there you will see Pork Chop (V3) on the left and then it is just a couple minutes more.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: I personally haven’t even seen this boulder, but I hear too many good things about it for it to not make this list especially when its hard to come up with a third great 7. Unfortunately you will have to walk a bit further, but it’ll be worth it.
V8
1. Orange Top Blue Sky
Bathtub Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Start on the left jug and move right staying on low holds to top out the right face before the right arete.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the path past the Pearl (V5) and come to the Bathtub Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Long and sustained with cool interesting movement as one would expect from a traverse that looks like this one.
2. Monkey Bar Direct
Monkey Bar Boulder (Not so High)
Beta: Sit start on the jugs, move through pockets and crimps to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk right along the main path past the Pearl Boulder and you’ll eventually come to Monkey Bar as it is along the main path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Overhung and sustained, this takes plenty of core strength. The landing is good, but its a popular place so don’t expect to get away from the crowds.
3. $500
$600 Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Stand start matched on a crimpy pinch. Move up and right through crimps to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: You can see the this boulder from the main trail once you come to the first group of boulders (see first photo at the top of page).
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is another crimpy face climb and while I like it and I like the style, the moves feel long which could make this less enjoyable for you.
V9 BONUS
1. Fear of a Black Hat
Cube Boulder (Highball):
Beta: Stand start with one hand on each side of the arete. Bump around to the left side and up to the crimpy ledge. Pinch the arete and use the side pull to gain the sloper. Move up to the ledge and top out to the right of the arete.
Beta Video 1
Beta Video 2
How to Get There: The cube is the first boulder that you see when walking the main trail from the parking lot.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Admittedly I don’t climb this hard so I have included 2 beta videos. The first one because I find it ironic that people are spraying beta at Alex Honnold and the second to help you pad the landing and accurately spot on one of the crux moves. This line is by far the most aesthetic and the proudest send at the Kraft Boulders, maybe anywhere. I mean it is literally the first obvious line you see. It is high on my list of problems to do.
Climbing and Bouldering are both Dangerous…
By continuing to read this post, as a reader of Pebble Pusher Bouldering Guides, you assume all risk associated with the activities described in this guide. Your safety depends on your own good judgment. The activities described in this post may lead to dangerous situations, and can result in serious injury or death. Bouldering and other forms of rock climbing require a significant degree of experience and instruction, which is outside the scope of this article.
There are hazards and dangers that are not described in this guide and we make no guarantee that the information in this guide is accurate. We could be completely wrong about everything, so you follow this guide at your own risk because we are certainly not an expert just a dirt bag boulderer who wants to help climbers enjoy their limited time.
