Best Joe’s Valley Boulder Problems:

The boulders in Joe’s Valley go on and on and on. With so much rock its hard to pick the best problems and the best areas to explore. Joe’s takes a little bit more time to get acquainted with the lack of a guide book for sale (as of 11/2020) and the fact that you often have to drive between boulders, but don’t let that deter you. The problems here are world class its often less crowded than other world class areas and the weather is generally predictable. If you’ve never been here before check out our article on The top ten things you need to know about Joe’s.

Getting to the 3 different areas:

Other things to consider:

DO NOT CLIMB ON SANDSTONE IF IT IS MOIST. You could break a hold and be forever cursed by the climbing gods. The grades here are all over the place especially in the old guidebook, so just enjoy it. Mountain Project is ok source to help you find bouldering areas, but the way they set it up in Joe’s it won’t help you find exact boulders. The map they have can help you find the areas without service. You might also find someone nice who has a digital version of an old guidebook they can airdrop you. Finally it might help you to take some screen shots of this article or downloading some of the beta videos (if you have YouTube Premium) before you get out there because the 4G out there is spotty at best and we only found it at New Joes (Verizon). Joe’s is dog friendly, but if you bring your furry friend be respectful and pick up the poop even if it isn’t yours. Pet owners have to stick together.

 

V0

1. Warm Up Traverse
Riverside (Low):

Beta: Traverse from left to right just starting left of the tree. Drop just before it rounds to corner or finish on “To Infinity (V1 See below)”
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive 3.1 miles up the left fork and look for the sign that marks the entrance to the boulders on the left. Walk down the hill towards the stream and the problem is on the boulder to the left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a great warmup or great V0 problem for the V0 climber. The feet are generally good, it has a bunch of different types of hold, and can be done both ways.

2. Thriller
No Substance (Really Freaking High):

Beta: Start on the center right of the boulder and follow the jugs to the top.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive 2.6 miles to a parking area in front of the No Substance Boulder. Walk up to the No substance Boulder and turn left and walk up the “stone steps” to a path that parallels the road. Follow that path and it’ll lead you right to thriller (which you can obviously see from the road.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The crux of the problem is within the first 12 feet of climbing and then it turn into a really enjoyable high ladder. This problem is super high so make sure to bring your mental A game.

3. Tonka
Boysize (Not High):

Beta: Start on good holds around head height. Move up and right through the good hueco and top out
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive .8 miles up the right fork to a small parking area at a wash on the right. Walk up the wash for ~5 mins and look for a stone lined path on the right. Pass the first boulder on your left (Footmare) and walk to the back right corner of the boulder right in front of you (Boysize) to find Tonka
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a short little V0 with good holds that require a little more body positioning in order to make this problem easier. That in addition to the low top out makes this a good problem for a V0 Climber.

V1

1. Warm Me Up Scotty
Area 51 ( Not so High, but Jug top out):

Beta: Sit start on obvious jug. Move up through the overhang top out the slab on big holds.
Beta Video
How to Get There: From the parking lot follow the main path for less than 5 mins a take right at the area 51 sign. Of the 3 large boulders you see when you come to the area, the problem is on the furthest one to the left on the side that is closest to the main path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Really enjoyable jug haul through an overhang. Pulling onto the slab from the overhang is the crux and then there’s a few more V0 moves to make it through that add a little spice for a V1 climber before you make it to the top out.

2. Surf’s Up 
Riverside (High, but easy top out):

Beta: Start on good holds on the face and go straight up then top out on the slab.
Beta Video
How to Get There: In the left fork drive 1.7 miles to the mine cart area. The problem is on the downhill side of the boulder with the mine cart in front of it.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This one is a good problem to work on getting used to being high on a boulder. Pulling onto the slab is easy but it can be unnerving for those who are not used to it.

3. To Infinity
Riverside (High):

Beta: Start on good holds to the right of the overhang. climb up and left to the top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive 3.1 miles up the left fork and look for the sign that marks the entrance to the boulders on the left. Walk down the hill towards the stream and the problem is on the boulder to the left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: If this one is too high for the people in the group try “Club Tan.”

V2

1. The Angler
Riverside (High):

Beta: Start on small holds just right of where the rail begins to get more positive. Traverse up and left  topping out through pockets at the end of the rail.
Beta Video
How to Get There: .Drive 3.1 miles up the left fork and look for the sign that marks the entrance to the boulders on the left. Walk down the hill towards the stream and you will see the problem
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The crux of this problem is the first two moves. The feet are so polished and the hands are not great. Once you make it onto the rail it just about finding or smearing the feet because the hands are pretty good at that point. Topping out is pretty casual as the holds are good up there but it is high so be aware. This is a cool looking problem, but there is better movement to be found on boulders elsewhere so makes sure to snag a pic of you looking cool on this boulder

2. Stumblebum V2 Variation
Area 51 (Not so High):

Beta: Squat start on the corner on a ledge and an undercling. Traverse right on the big ledge and either go up to the jug at the corner and step off or climb through the small holds and around the corner and step off.
Beta Video
How to Get There: From the parking lot follow the main path for less than 5 mins a take right at the area 51 sign. Of the 3 large boulders you see when you come to the area, the problem is on the one furthest to the right.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is my favorite V2 I have climbed in Joe’s. Big flowy moves on overhung holds get me psyched about this problem.

3. Chexmix
Boy Size (Not High):

Beta: Sit start on the good rail and move left and up to a good top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive .8 miles up the right fork to a small parking area at a wash on the right. Walk up the wash for ~5 mins and look for a stone lined path on the right. Walk past  the first boulder and turn left (Footmare).  Walk uphill and and around the corner of the Footmare boulder and you will see the Chexmix Boulder looking at you.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Probably soft for a V2 it is consistent, fun, and has a top out.

V3

1. Don’t Leave Too Soon
Riverside (Not so High):

Beta: Sit start the tufa. Work the left hand up to the sloper and then move into the undercling. From there its a few big moves to the top
Beta Video
How to Get There: Drive 3.1 miles up the left fork and look for the sign that marks the entrance to the boulders on the left. Walk down the hill, cross the river, and the boulder sits slightly up hill from the “Low Tide Boulder.”
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:  The only reason not to be crazy about this problem is the cold stream in between the parking area and this beauty. I think this boulder is so cool. The bottom knee bar beta makes the bottom section pretty casual and the top section is just a lot of fun with big moves on big holds and less than ideal feet.

2. The Reach Around 
UMWA Boulder (Not High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There: In the right fork drive 2.1 miles. The boulder is literally on the road and the problem is on the side closest to the fork
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

3. Scary Spice:
Area 51 (Highball)

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

V4

1. Kobra Kahn
Halloween Town (Lowball):

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

2. Self Service
Self Service Boulder (Not High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

3. Pimper’s Paradise
No Substance Area (Not High):

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

V5

1. Frosted Flakes
The Hulk (Kind of High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

2. Contact
88+ (Not High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

3. Kill By Numbers
Mine Cart (Lowball):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

V6

1. Wills Afire
Right Sign Area (High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

2. I’d Rather Be Climbing Her
Limbo and Tsunami (High):

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective:

3. Scary Monsters
Big Joe’s (Not so High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

V7

1. Bring the Heatwole
Eden (Not High):

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:

GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

2. G2-07
Eden (Not so High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

3. Water Painting
All Boulder (Lowball):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

V8

1. The Flu
The Flu (Not so High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

2. Black Sea/Dead Sea (Not so High)

Beta: 
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

3. No Substance
No Substance (Not so High):

Beta:
Beta Video
How to Get There:
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: 

 

Climbing and Bouldering are both Dangerous…

By continuing to read this post, as a reader of Pebble Pusher Bouldering Guides, you assume all risk associated with the activities described in this guide. Your safety depends on your own good judgment. The activities described in this post may lead to dangerous situations, and can result in serious injury or death. Bouldering and other forms of rock climbing require a significant degree of experience and instruction, which is outside the scope of this article.

There are hazards and dangers that are not described in this guide and we make no guarantee that the information in this guide is accurate. We could be completely wrong about everything, so you follow this guide at your own risk because we are certainly not an expert just a dirt bag boulderer who wants to help climbers enjoy their limited time.