Best Bishop Boulder Problems:
If it is your first time to Bishop it can be a daunting task to identify, let alone find the top Bishop boulder problems. That’s why I have selected the best of the best at each level, generally trying to avoid the highballs and bad landings that your mom would definitely not want you climbing, but this is Bishop so that is not entirely avoidable.
There are basically two main areas in Bishop, the Buttermilk’s and the Happy’s. Since you’d be silly to spend all of your time at just one location I’ve mapped out the top 3 problems at each grade level in both locations after climbing, researching, and talking to lots of people (Check out the link above for the Buttermilk’s article). I have put some effort into compiling resources to help you find the boulder problems as quickly as possible so check out the beta videos, and GPS coordinates to help you find the problems.
The Happy’s
The Happy’s tend to be more friendly to beginners than Buttermilk’s based on the observations that the rock is more skin friendly, the grades feel slightly easier overall, and the problems tend to be not quite as high. That doesn’t mean the Happy’s doesn’t have hundreds of awesome hard climbs and highballs. The multitude of finger pockets and big huecos in the Volcanic Tuft make for a wide range of diverse movement. It does feels a bit more crowded than the Buttermilk’s as some of the super mega ultra classics frequently have pad parties on them and they are right on the main path, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing as I’ve met plenty of cool people that have helped me send some lines. The Happy’s are generally a little warmer than the Buttermilk’s as they are not as exposed to the wind. Finally, access here is tenuous so stay on the trail (that includes your dog) and if you pack it in, pack it out!
Other things to consider:
Mountain Project is also an excellent source to help you find boulders as they have a map that can be accessed without service. You can find the location of the problem from the boulder’s page (not the problem’s page) and then click the map button. Finally it might help you to take some screen shots of this article or downloading some of the beta videos (if you have YouTube Premium) before you get out there because while you can get service, it is spotty at best.
If you need to rent some crash pads Wilson’s Eastside Sports has your back and don’t forget to drop your shoes off at the Rubber Room on your way out of town if you need a resole because it’ll save you a few bucks on shipping.
GETTING THERE:
Link to Google Maps: Parking
V0
1. Corner Route
Corner Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Stand start on the flakes. Follow the obvious line up and left through the crack to the top out bucket.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second photo from top). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group take the hallway on the right between the two boulders and then turn left. The Corner Boulder will be on your right.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: If this is your first time outside expect to be scared. It is a little on the high side, but its a fun little problem on good holds.
2. Strange Quotations
Strange Boulder (High with a less than ideal landing):
Beta: Stand start and follow the flakes straight up to the top
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group take the hallway on the right between the two boulders and then turn right. The corner boulder will be the second on your left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: A little high, but secure moves on good holds. Way easier than “Ain’t but the One Way”.
3. Ain’t But the One Way
Jesus Chrysler Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start and climb up and right along the edge. Pull over onto the slab once you run out of obvious holds about 4 ft. from the peak.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right It generally has chalk on the back too.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a the shortest V0 on the list, but also the most overhung. I like getting on this climb just because it makes me feel cool.
V1
1. Heavenly Path
Heavenly Path Boulder (Highball):
Beta: Stand start and work through the beginning jugs to the hueco. Then use the crimps on the slab to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon until you reach the Heavenly Path Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The entire problem is very laddery, except for like 1 move, but the line does look really cool. I thought this was easier all of the V0’s, but I wouldn’t do this unless your mental game is there and you climb harder than V1 because if you fall off the slab you will most likely get hurt. Its also in the sun most of the day so bring a chalk bag with you.
2. Grant’s Christmas Present
More Water, Less Power Boulder (Lowball):
Beta: Sit start on jugs traverse left toward the center and pull onto the slab using the big hueco in the center of the face and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon until you reach the Heavenly Path Boulder (above). You will find Grant’s Christmas Present on the farthest side of the next boulder up the path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a nice lowball with big holds on an overhang face. Its a fun jug hall and not super sandbagged for a Bishop problem.
3. Slight Inducement
Slight Inducement Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Squat start/stack pads to sit start on the good hold. Work through the big concave depression and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon pass the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s) and the Serengeti Boulder (See V5’s). From there continue up the canyon and it will be in the first set of climbable boulder on the right that sit right on the right side of the path.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Excellent boulder problem for the V1 Climber. Good landing, not super high but committing none the less. This is the farthest boulder in the article from the parking lot
V2
1. Kling and Smirk
Savannah Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start/squat start on the big flake. Move up and left along the arete to top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking until you reach the Happy Boulder (3rd photo from the top). Continue up the canyon floor on the main path looking to the right. This problem is a few boulders up and right on the main path, but harder to find because the problem is on the side furthest from the parking lot.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is pretty beta specific. Many-a-good climbers have scratched their heads at this one for way longer than they would have predicted.
2. Sixty Foot Woman Traverse
Sixty Foot Woman Wall (Lowball or Kind of High):
Beta: Start under the left most bulge. Traverse right and finish up the center of the right face or traverse right and step off if you don’t like V-easy high climbing. There is a good amount of the problem you could walk if you used the exposed rock so for the purposes of the problem the mini slab below the pockets in the beginning are off.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking until you reach the Happy Boulder (3rd photo from the top). Take the path up the right canyon bank at a 45 degree angle then take your first right and follow the snaking path up to the wall.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The pump is real! The first move is tough and then its like V0-V1 until you get to the bulge at which point the problem gets real intense because you cannot see your feet and I felt I got pretty scrunched. For a V2 climber this is a proud send!
3. Spinal Snap
Shadow Play Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on under clings and work straight up through big holds to the top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking until you reach the Happy Boulder (3rd photo from the top). Take the path up the right canyon bank at a 45 degree angle and the boulder will be right on the path as the path winds back to the left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is a feel good climb and a really good warm up for hard climbers. The sit directly to the right is also v2 and also worth a few burns
V3
1. Rio’s Secret Arete
Secret Arete Boulder (Good height, weird landing, but falling is generally fine):
Beta: Sit start and climb the arete to a fun top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking until you reach the Happy Boulder (3rd and 4th photo from the top). Take the path up the right canyon bank at a 45 degree angle and take your first right. The path will wind a bit when you reach the wall with 1 thousand pockets (this is the 60ft Woman Traverse) turn left and scramble up the and over the V-easy slab. Continue straight up and over another V-easy slab or shimmy through the narrow slot. Walk left for 6ft and the entrance into Rio’s Secret Arete will be on the right.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is my favorite V3 in Bishop. It is secluded, the beta is technical, it’s always shaded, it looks cool, and the top out is easy, but fun.
2. Slap Happy
Slap Happy Boulder (Not High):
Beta: Squat start and slap out right to a good hold then work straight up and over the center bulge.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the main path from the parking until you reach a clearing that is roughly 50 yards long. The path should sweep to the right and the Slap Happy boulder will be on your right
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: #Thuglife. Short and Thuggy. Body Positioning is key.
3. Carrot Top:
Fred Boulder (Not so High)
Beta: Stand start on the rail and move right. Make a nice big move and top.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon pass the Happy Boulder (3rd photo from the top) and the Serengeti Boulder (See V5’s). From there turn around and you should be able to see Carrot Top. Walk back to the parking lot except at the first Y take a left and Carrot Top is right in front of you.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This might be toward the easier end of V3, but the movement still feels good and it is a pretty intuitive boulder problem.
V4
1. Solarium
Solarium Boulder (Kind of High):
Beta: Stand start in pockets, move up the featured face. The crux is just before the lip.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon until you reach the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s). From there Solarium is super close. It is the tallest boulder you can see on the canyon floor further into the canyon. The problem is on the left side of the boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is the most climbed V4 in the Happy’s so expect pad parties. The climb itself is good and the pockets are cool. Probably not the best V4 in the Happy’s, but it still feels awesome when you top out. Mountain Project lists it as a V4- so do with that what you will.
2. Ketron Classic
Savannah Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on side pulls and gain the undercling. Then figure out how to make it to the jug.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot until you reach the Happy Boulder (3rd photo from the top). Continue up the canyon floor on the main path looking to the right. This problem is a few boulders up and right on the main path, but harder to find because the problem is on the side furthest from the parking lot.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: At 6’2″ there is a way to break the beta that avoid the crimp/dyno. It still pretty hard either way.
3. Weekender
Slow Dance Cave (Not so High):
Beta: Start in the cave as far to the left as possible. Move right out of the cave when you get to a good left facing side pull, move up and slightly right through a big hueco jug and then traverse back left to down climb on the other boulder. You can top out, but its high and unnecessary .
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first two photos at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group take the hallway on the right between the two boulders then turn left. The Weekender will be in the cave on the left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is my favorite V4. Long and juggy with lots of shifting body positions. This is also the easiest of the 4’s on the list.
V5
1. Serengeti
Serengeti Boulder (Kind of High, but easy top):
Beta: This climb is an eliminate. Stand start in the big undercling side pull. Move out to the middle of the face and work up to the flat ledge and top out. Be sure not to go to far to the right or else you will be on a V4 variation. Mountain Project calls it the Flying Zebra
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon. The Serengeti Boulder will be on the main path a good distance into the canyon. It is the 2nd furthest problem from the parking lot on the list.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The most popular V5 in the canyon. Expect pad parties. There seems to be a decent amount of confusion as to what is acceptable on this climb and what is not. I think the general consensus is you have to use the crimp in the middle of the face to gain the ledge. Personally I think the V4 variation, the Flying Zebra, is better as it is not an eliminate and the movement is cooler, but who am I to argue with what is ‘tradition’ and what is not.
2. Vulcan Crawl
Happy Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start in the left most part of the overhang. Traverse right to the arete and top out the arete.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon pass the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s) and soon you will see the Happy Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: This is such a good problem. Low ball and sustained.
3. Captain Hook
Captain Hook Alcove (Not High):
Beta: Sit start in pockets make a few moves, do some magic, and move to the jug. Then step off to the left.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group walk to the end, just past the flat short rock you step on, take your first two lefts and head on up the left bank of the canyon. At the first wall with lots of pockets turn right and Captain Hook will be in the first alcove on your left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Don’t look at the beta video for more than 5 secs if you are into figuring out the beta for yourself. It could ruin it for you.
V6
1. The Hulk
Happy Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on jugs in the hueco. Move up and left around the bulge to the block and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon past the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s) and soon you will see the Happy Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: A four star problem in the guidebook this classic is normally crowded with climbers and spectators alike.
2. The Gleaner:
Beta: Stand start with a high crimp and an undercling. Do some special moves and reach the ledge to top out.
Beta Video: Spoiler alert if you like figuring out your own beta don’t watch this. Its hard to forget one of the crux moves
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group walk to the end just past the flat short rock you step on and the Gleaner will be on your right.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Oh man, this one is so satisfying and cooler if you figure it out yourself.
3. Every Color You Are
Desert Sky and Morning Dove Area (Not so High):
Beta: Squat start on low holds. Use finger pockets to move to the big hueco sloper and then move up and right to top via the crack.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon until you reach the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s). From the start of Heavenly Path turn left and head up the left canyon bank passing the rock with the giant hole in it. Turn left at the intersection and it is the boulder 40 yards in front of you.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: The start doesn’t add much to the problem, but once you are in it, it is such a good line with lots of different sequences to try.
V7
1. Rave
Slow Dance Cave (Not so High):
Beta: Sit start on a left hand side pull and a crimp. Move left to the ledge. Then move up through the dish to the top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group, take the hallway on the right between the two boulders and then turn left. Rave will be in the cave on the left.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: People may complain that the holds have become polished, but that just makes the slopers that much more satisfying to conquer. This problem is in the shade all the time which makes it even more attractive.
2. Jug Start to Acid Wash Right
Acid Wash Cave (Not High):
Beta: Start on the jug deep in the cave and traverse right to the edge. From there pull over the edge and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group, walk to the end just before the flat short rock turn right and the Acid Wash Cave is on your right.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Good steep movement. You might not find a pad party in here, but it is still a pretty popular problem.
3. Morning Dove White
Desert Sky and Morning Dove Area (Kind of High):
Beta: Stand start in chest high pockets right of the crack. Move up and left to gain the horizontal seam and then head straight up to the top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon until you reach the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s). From the start of Heavenly Path turn left and head up the left canyon bank passing the rock with the giant hole in it. Turn left at the intersection and then take your first right before you make it to the first boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: One of the longer climbs on this list it is a proud send. Better in the second half of the day
V8
1. Disco Diva
Happy Boulder (Not so High):
Beta: Squat on good holds and move up into the directional holds on the face. Move closer to the lip and dyno for the top.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. Stay on the main path in the bottom of the canyon pass the Heavenly Path Boulder (See V1’s) and soon you will see the Happy Boulder.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: Strong moves down low, with an awesome dyno.
2. Hamtaro
Hand to Hand Combat Wall (Not High)
Beta: Sit start on the pockets and move up the steep corner and top out. Anything left of the crack is off.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out and you will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). From there take the main path that goes slightly uphill past the first group of boulders. When you reach the second group, walk to the end just past the flat short rock you step on take your first two lefts and head on up the left bank of the canyon. The first wall with lots of pockets you reach is the wall you are looking for. Walk left a little bit and you will see the problem.
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: While this climb is on the shorter side, the landing is good, the problem is steep, and it has good movement.
3. Highbrow
Highbrow Boulder (Not High, but Bad Landing):
Beta: Squat start with low holds. Move up the prow and top out.
Beta Video
How to Get There: Walk up the path from the parking lot. The path will level out at the top of the hill. You will see the Jesus Chrysler Boulder on the right (See first and second pictures at the top of the page). It is generally the first boulder with chalk on it. From there continue into the canyon and take the 2nd left. Look for a small pride rock looking formation up the hill sticking out. This is Highbrow
GPS Location
Pebble Pusher Perspective: I found it a little surprising that mountain project gave this an R rating. It is no doubt scary and the landing is difficult to spot, but you there’s really only one move you don’t want to fall uncontrollably on and that is the move just before the top which also happens to be the crux in my opinion, but if you have a lot of pads a 2 good spotters it is unlikely (but not impossible) to result in a bad injury if you fall from there.
Climbing and Bouldering are both Dangerous…
By continuing to read this post, as a reader of Pebble Pusher Bouldering Guides, you assume all risk associated with the activities described in this guide. Your safety depends on your own good judgment. The activities described in this post may lead to dangerous situations, and can result in serious injury or death. Bouldering and other forms of rock climbing require a significant degree of experience and instruction, which is outside the scope of this article.
There are hazards and dangers that are not described in this guide and we make no guarantee that the information in this guide is accurate. We could be completely wrong about everything so you follow this guide at your own risk because we are certainly not an expert just a dirt bag boulderer who wants to help climbers enjoy their limited time.
