Choose the link to the grade range you Climb
-V0, V1, V2
-V2, V3, V4
-V4, V5, V6
-V6, V7, V8
If you’ve never been to the Gunks read….
Welcome to the Free 1 Day Gunks Bouldering Guide! So you have decided to take 1 day and boulder at the Gunks. Most people familiar with the area would ask, “What are you thinking? The Gunks is for Trad climbing!” and while its hard not to agree with them, trust that you are in good hand because this place has plenty of cool problems with great landings at various grades.
This post is designed to give you everything you need to know about bouldering for 1 day in the Gunks, almost no frills, just good solid information that will help you spend the most time on the rock as possible. The aim is to get you the best directions and some beta (if you want it) to get you on high quality problems within an area of reasonably high problem concentration.
Whether you are transitioning from the gym to the crag or you are travelling and have a spare day in the Gunks you probably don’t want to spend a lot of time searching for good problems with good landings. We have put in a good amount of thought into providing you with decent landings as the travelling folk and newbies tend not to have tons of spotters or pads. This means we might not put you on the ultra classic lines but trust me we are trying our best. If you are transitioning from the gym to outside expect to climb at least 2 grades below what you are projecting in the gym and don’t get discouraged, its just harder outside. Lastly if you enjoy this guide or have any changes you think are relevant please leave us some feedback via the form on the front page.
1. Climbing and Bouldering are both Dangerous…
By continuing to read this post, as a reader of Pebble Pusher Bouldering Guides, you assume all risk associated with the activities described in this guide. Your safety depends on your own good judgment. The activities described in this post may lead to dangerous situations, and can result in serious injury or death. Bouldering and other forms of rock climbing require a significant degree of experience and instruction, which is outside the scope of this article.
There are hazards and dangers that are not described in this guide and we make no guarantee that the information in this guide is accurate. We could be completely wrong about everything so you follow this guide at your own risk because we are certainly not an expert just dirt bag boulderers who wants to help climbers enjoy their limited time.
Another disclaimer I do not own all of the videos in this article. I found a lot of them on Youtube and compiled them for your benefit. Let me know if a video gets taken down.
2. Budgeting for your Trip
When I went to the Gunks for the first time I was super surprised and a little disgruntled that you had to pay as I am a big proponent of being a dirt bag boulderer. That being said, going to the Gunks to boulder for the day is like purchasing a day pass at a gym. As of 8/16/18 it cost $20/person to boulder for the day and $100 to have an access pass for the year. Don’t be fooled by the $50 a year price, that’s for hiking only. All I can say is, it’s a private preserve so lets all just agree to be happy that we can climb there. You can pick up your passes at the parking lot entrance or the visitors center.
For lodging you basically have 4 options the AAC campground that will cost you $38/night or $24/night to tent if you are an AAC member or a member of the Mohonk Preserve, the New Paltz Hostel where private rooms start at $80/night and dorms start at $40/PERSON, a hotel, or finding a parking lot to dirt bag it in.
If you need to rent pads or shoes check out Rock and Snow, they have pads starting at $14/day and shoes for $10/day. Reservations are recommended for just about everything from the campsites to the crash pads so do your best to call ahead.
3. Getting There
Use Google maps to find: Mohonk Preserve West Trapps Trailhead Parking Area, the GPS coordinates are 41.735999, -74.200269, or click the link. Lucky for everyone, the Gunks has pretty good cell service so you shouldn’t run into too many issues of getting lost.
4. Format
We’ve documented at least 6 problems in each of the following grade ranges, so pick the grade range that best applies to you. We have made an effort to keep the plans relatively close together as we understand that your partner might not climb at the same level.
The plan has been designed so that you go to the furthest location first. I know you are probably itching to climb, but be patient the walk will make sense. Not only are there plenty of problems for you to warm up on, the landing is great as well. I recommend that you take a look at the other areas below Boxcar so you can identify them as you walk by to speed up progress on the way back.
V0, V1, V2 Plan
Boxcar Area:
Boxcar has plenty of very short V0 to V2 Problems. Check mountain project for more. From the parking lot walk 30 to 35 mins on Undercliff/Carriage Rd. Yes we actually mean 30 to 35 mins so we recommend you look at your phone now. GPS Location
1. V0 Unnamed BP #6: Start on the obvious ledge, make the reach to the good hold, and top out. Beta Video
2. V1 Unnamed BP #3: Sit start to the left of the rock in the ground in front of Boxcar. Use edges to move up and right to the top out. Beta Video
3. V1 Blasted Rock: Located directly left of the Boxcar Boulder. Climb the face of the rock using thin edges to gain the top without using either arête (Adding the arêtes make the climb V0). Beta Video
Nameless Area:
While standing at Boxcar you should be able to see the Nameless Boulder. Walk back toward the parking lot for about 1 min and 30 seconds. GPS location
4. V2 Marrakesh/Nameless Traverse: Start in the obvious horizontal below the first mini roof. Move out from under the mini-roof and pull through seems to gain the topout. Beta Video
Terrace Boulders & Steel Bridge Area:
Walk about 27 mins back towards the parking lot and stop at the group of boulders just before you make it back to the steel bridge.
Close up of Terrace Boulders and Steel Bridge Area
5. V1 Rock Star: Starting from the Behemoth Boulder walk away from the parking lot and follow the boulder line on the left. When the bigger boulders start to move away from the road look up and to the left. The boulders will form an inside corner and that is where Rock Star is located. Once you get there, start on the obvious incut holds to the right of the crack. Use the crack to pull up and over the mini roof and top out. Beta Video GPS Location Directional Video
6. V2 Lazy Mazy: From the steel bridge find the Behemoth Boulder (the really big one). The boulder leans against another boulder forming a triangular doorway. Lazy Mazy is just inside that doorway. Use good holds to climb the short overhung face. Beta Video GPS Location
7. V0 Boulder of the Gods: On your way back to the car, you will see a boulder in the middle of the road at the intersection. To the right of that boulder is the back side of the Boulder of the Gods. Walk around the boulder and start in the middle of the face. If you can, climb to the top avoiding using the sides to topout. Beta Video GPS Location
V2, V3, V4 Plan
Boxcar Area:
Boxcar has plenty of very short V0 to V2 problems making it a good warm up. Check the V0, V1, V2 Plan for 2 good ones. From the Parking Lot walk 30 to 35 mins on Undercliff/Carriage Rd. Yes we actually mean 30 to 35 mins so we recommend you look at your phone now. GPS Location
1. V4 Boxcar Boulder Problem: Start with feet on the left most obvious ledge and hands in the really high, over chalked, holds, traverse right without using the top of the boulder, turn the corner, and top out the slab. Beta Video
2. V3 Baby Hole: Baby hole is located to 3 boulders to the left of the Boxcar boulder. It is pretty short and is recognizable by the hole you have to climb down into to start the problem. Sit in the hole, use edges to gain the flake, and top out. Beta Video Direction Video
Andrew’s Area:
From Boxcar walk back toward the parking lot for about 4 minutes and 15 seconds. You will see the obvious roof (See Picture Below). GPS Location
3. V4 Andrews Boulder Problem: Start on good edges for hands and feet on the slab of the unattached boulder. Make a big first move left to the obvious ledge. Work through the mini-roof at the left end of the ledge and top out. Beta Video
4. V2 Andrews Jump: Jump to ledge, make a couple of campus moves, get your feet on and top out. Beta Video
Pebbles Area:
From Andrew’s walk toward the parking lot about 14 minutes and 15 seconds. Its really hard to miss the giant Pebbles boulder on your right (see the Tweaky Crack photo). GPS Location
5. V3 Tweaky Crack: Sit start on the over chalked holds at the bottom. Use the crack on the left and what ever else you can find, avoiding the boulder on your right, to gain the top. Beta Video
Keyhole Cliff Area:
From the Pebbles Area walk toward the Parking lot for 4 minutes and 30 seconds. At the point where there is a large boulder touching the side of the path on the left and the cliff on the right, the road narrows slightly. Look for the pictures below. GPS Location
6. V4 Gills Pinch: Start on the slab under the small roof in the vertical crack. Without using the rock to the left, climb straight out of the first roof and move right over the second smaller roof to the right hand side pull and pull through holds until you reach the obvious horizontal. Traverse right and down climb. Beta Video
Terrace Boulders & Steel Bridge Area:
Walk about 4 mins back towards the parking lot and its the group of boulders just before you make it back to the steel bridge. GPS Location
Close up of Terrace Boulders and Steel Bridge Area
7. V2 Lazy Mazy: From the steel bridge find the Behemoth Boulder (the really big one). The boulder leans against another boulder forming a triangular doorway. Lazy Mazy is just inside that doorway. Use good holds to climb the short overhung face just inside the doorway. Beta Video
8. V4 The Lorax: Sit start in the obvious horizontal. Move past the short steep face to top out. Beta Video
V4, V5, V6 Plan
Boxcar Area:
Boxcar has plenty of very short V0 to V2 problems making it a good warm up. Check the V0, V1, V2 Plan for 2 good ones. From the Parking Lot walk 30 to 35 mins on Undercliff/Carriage Rd. Yes we actually mean 30 to 35 mins so we recommend you look at your phone now. GPS Location
1. V4 Boxcar Boulder Problem: Start with feet on the left most obvious ledge and hands in the really high over chalked holds, traverse right without using the top of the boulder, turn the corner and top out the slab. Beta Video
Nameless Area:
While standing at Boxcar you should be able to see the Nameless Boulder. Walk back toward the parking lot for a 1 minute and 30 seconds. GPS location
2. V6 Marrakech Express: Start in seam, traverse up and right through sloping thin holds, and top just before the bulge. Beta Video
Andrew’s Area:
From Nameless walk back toward the parking lot for about 2 minutes and 45 seconds. You will see the obvious roof (See Picture Below). GPS Location
3. V5 Who is Andrew?: Walk your feet up the slab of the disconnected bottom boulder and position your hands to make the first big move. Traverse out and left around the first bulge and into the second bulge to top out. Beta Video
4. V6 The Buddha: Start under the lowest part of the roof with your hands on a side pull and sloper. Pull your feet up and move out from under the roof. Top out on the arête. Beta Video
Pebbles Area:
From Andrew’s Boulder walk left toward the parking lot about 14 minutes and 15 seconds. Its really hard to miss the giant Pebbles boulder on your right. GPS Location
5. V5 Black Boulder: Sit start the black boulder on an undercling and sloper and bump your way up and out to the top out. Beta Video
6. V5 Did That One Years Ago: Located Up the hill and behind the Pebbles Boulder. Start underneath the roof, move up and right to help you pull up onto the face, and top out. Beta Video GPS Location Directional Video
Keyhole Cliff Area:
From the Pebbles Area walk toward the Parking lot for 4 minutes and 30 seconds. At the point where there is a large boulder touching the side of the path on the left and the cliff on the right, the road narrows slightly. Look for the pictures below. GPS Location
7. V4 Gills Pinch: Start on the slab under the small roof in the vertical crack. Without using the rock to the left climb straight out of the first roof and move right over the second smaller roof to the right hand side pull pull through holds until you reach the obvious horizontal. Traverse right and down climb. Beta Video
V6, V7, V8 Plan
Boxcar Area:
From the Parking Lot walk 30 to 35 mins on Undercliff/Carriage Rd. Yes we actually mean 30 to 35 mins so we recommend you look at your phone now. If you need a good warm up check out the V4, V5, V6 Plan and try the V4 Boxcar Boulder Problem.GPS Location
1. V8 Boxcar Arête: Sit under left arête. Climb up the arête and top out. Beta Video
Nameless Area:
While standing at Boxcar you should be able to see the Nameless Boulder. Walk back toward the parking lot for a 1 minute and 30 seconds. GPS location
2. V6 Marrakech Express: Start in far left seam, traverse up and right through sloping thin holds, and top just before the bulge. Beta Video
Andrew’s Area:
From Nameless walk back toward the parking lot for about 2 minutes and 45 seconds. You will see the obvious roof. GPS Location
3. V6 Buddha: Start under the lowest part of the roof with your hands on a side pull and sloper. Pull your feet up and move out from under the roof. Top out on the arête. Beta Video
4. V8 Illustrious Buddha: Same as the Buddha, but tops out to the right of the arête. Beta Video
Pebbles Area:
From Andrew’s walk left toward the parking lot about 14 minutes and 15 seconds. Its really hard to miss the giant Pebbles boulder on your right. GPS Location
5. V8 Lynn Hill Traverse: Start in left seam, traverse right, and top out before you reach the next boulder on the right. Beta Video
6. V8 Depantzer: To the left of the Pebbles Boulder that the Lynn Hill Traverse is on, you will find another big boulder. In between those boulders sitting back a ways is the Depantzer Boulder. Start on left hand side pull. Work through the overhanging section to reach the lay backing crack and top out. Beta Video Directional Video
Keyhole Cliff
From the Pebbles Area walk toward the Parking lot for 4 minutes and 30 seconds. At the point where there is a large boulder touching the side of the path on the left and the cliff on the right, the road narrows slightly. Look for the pictures below. GPS Location
7. V7 Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans: Start on the slab under the small roof in the vertical crack. Without using the rock to the left, climb straight out of the first roof, stay left of the second smaller roof (if you go to the right hand side pull above the second small roof it goes V4, Gills Pinch Roof), and finish on the jug. Traverse right and down climb. Beta Video
Terrace Boulders & Steel Bridge Area:
Walk about 4 mins back towards the parking lot and stop at the group of boulders just before you make it back to the steel bridge.
Close up of Terrace Boulders and Steel Bridge Area
8. V7 A New Pair of Glasses: Highball, but classic, watch the beta video if you are not sure where to top out because this one is dangerous. Start on a pinch and sloper and climbing the overhung face moving up and slightly left. Pull over the roof to easy climbing and top out in the center of the boulder. Beta Video GPS Location
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